Lead rope soloing gear. If the device fails, the backup should save your life.

Lead rope soloing gear. There are two main ways to protect your rope from sharp edges: - Use a rope protector to add a sacrificial buffer. Call us today for more information on Climbing School by Stone Adventures. Why (re)invent the wheel. Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. We'll walk you through the fundamentals of ground anchoring, choosing an anchor location, and troubleshooting rope jamming. I have a grigri currently. The information in this guide is meant to serve as a baseline for rope Rope soloing is simply the ability to climb alone, yet still have the safety of being attached to a rope (rather than free-soloing). Shiny new gear often signals less experience, and combining that These accessory products truly refine a lead rope solo setup, enabling soloists to lead climb near their free climbing limit. A slip knot works well here since it can be released one- handed without interrupting your climbing. While creativity and problem-solving are valuable, this approach can lead to unforeseen risks, especially without a strong foundation in tried-and-true techniques. For the GriGri, this is the "brake" side of the rope. I have accomplished close to 100 pitches with this system, both free and aid climbing. I'd rather Free solo, boulder, or top rope solo or stay at home and pleasure myself most days if I'm alone though. A Microtraxion clipped to a gear loop is often used to manage this cache loop - while climbing, one uses a free hand to feed slack through the Micro, continually keeping a ~10ft long loop of slack Lead Rope Solo Climbing – Multi-Pitch Tricks by YCamus | Apr, J, PM | Lead Rope Solo, Rope Solo Picture for the article by Tom Evans (THANK YOU!!): Yann Camus flashing the Salathe Wall (super runout here) on El Capitan lead rope solo over 5 days. Although I'm very happy how secure it is and how fast it brakes to take a fall, it was a bummer how much friction it gives when lead climbing. Avant Climbing Innovations, based in Flagstaff Arizona, and founded by Brent Barghahn, focuses on specialty gear for top rope and lead A multi purpose backfeed preventer for lead rope soloing. Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. 14a R) last month—successfully completing the hardest trad solo of all time. How do you lead rope solo? The process is simple; as you climb the rope feeds out from your bag (your spare rope), through your self-feeding solo device, and creates ‘climbing rope’ for you to progress upwards. Learn about big wall climbing, aid climbing, rope soloing, and more. Which method do you prefer? While the leader sorts the hauled gear, the seconder should remove their jumars and put the leader on belay. Does anyone have experience with the Pinch? How does it feel compared to the Grigri? Is it good for lead? Thanks! Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. A place to discuss rope solo climbing. 3. Master safe techniques, anchor building, and backup systems for climbing independence. Brent from Avant Climbing joined us to show us what he uses to climb hard but stay redundant. This device clamps the rope and blocks against a carabiner to create one-directional feed prevention. 8mm. Yikes, your rope got damaged near the middle from rockfall, and for whatever reason you have to keep climbing up instead of rapping down. - fig-8 into harness as normal As expected soloing with knots was slow and clunky (although safe) and required at least one free hand to pull through slack and tie. I've read about a lot of different set ups, and am just wondering what yall have found to work the best. Rope Soloing Just watched Pete Whittaker's film about rope soloing Freerider on El Cap last night and since I haven't stopped thinking about how nice rope soloing sounds. Are there any ways around this, besides for the obvious solution of backup knots, like attaching the grigri to your belay loop with a sling, or some other way of using it? Rope solo climbing (both Top Rope Solo and Lead Rope Solo) is often seen as a safe alternative to free soloing, but as with any form of climbing, things can and do go wrong. “In preparation for my Yosemite trip I tried to climb on as much Watch our series of free video tutorials on rope solo lead climbing. As he points out, rope Whether top-roping or on the lead, rope soloing is risky business. Learning to LEAD ROPE SOLO has been the most liberating feeling I’ve had in climbing since learning to Top Rope Solo 🤩 Having the skills to climb in your own has many advantages: - You aren’t beholden to other people’s schedules 📅 - You can climb when the conditions suit you ⛅️ - You have a lot more time 🕰️ And honestly, climbing safely without Otherwise, for each pitch, the climber must lower, clean gear, untie the lead rope from the anchor, and re-climb or ascend the pitch (see Brent Barghahn's "Redpoint Rope Soloing Revised" for an overview of a modern LRS system). 213 likes, 0 comments - avant_climbing_innovations on April 21, 2025: "What is a cache loop? For any lead rope soloing system, automatic self-feeding comes by managing free side rope weight with a “cache loop”. com/collections/lead-rope-solo-solutionsFor more details on my rope soloing methods Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Description & Tech Specs Revolutionize Your Lead Rope Solo Climbing Experience! Elevate your lead rope soloing system with AVANT's innovative Comprehensive resource for climbing systems, techniques, and safety guides. We tested over a dozen industrial rubber grades and landed on the one that delivers the smoothest Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Not familiar at all with rope soloing techniques, that was super interesting. A cache loop of the free rope hanging down about 15 feet or less will pull smoothly through the device I am planning to learn to rope solo this spring. I've seen the Edelrid Pinch and love the fact that you can clip it directly to the belay loop. For any rope soloing system, the "cache loop" is crucial to keep the free side of the rope light and easy to self feed through the device. This video provides instruction in how to rope solo. Use our Soft-Cinch Backfeed Preventers to I'm not sure how you anticipate doing this without an anchor, like a typical lead rope solo setup. I'd Love to hear what you think Important: In climbing or mountaineering, climbing with a partner or in a team offers the highest level of safety. This lets you climb with a knot in the middle of After stating that, this first part in this video series is an intro to rope solo lead climbing with some prerequisite requirements and warnings, as Gear Solutions for the Core Rock Climber: including product offerings for lead rope solo, top rope solo, multipitch, and trad (traditional) rock climbing. Gerke Hoekstra is very experienced in lead rope solo climbing and tope rope solo climbing. You can use this technique to lead or top rope belay. After a discussion of the difference between lead rope soloing and top rope soloing Glen discusses the How I Rope Solo. Amazing. That’s why we created the Comfort Catch LRS Absorber: engineered for optimal stretch, tuned for energy dampening, and shaped for compact integration into your LRS setup. I mainly use it for leading and Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. Brent uses a cam assisted belay device to self belay. Even with the rope in my pack (so no weight from the rope on the Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Top-rope solo is an easy way to get your climbing fix while maintaining social distancing. It involves double There are a few ways to safely and successfully rope climb without a climbing partner. But I love climbing so I do it on rare occasions. However afaik For any lead rope soloing system, automatic self-feeding comes by managing free side rope weight with a “cache loop”. Place gear as you normally would and clip Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. He's super savy on systems and safety, and he solos a lot. Hi, seeking for some feedback if you have experience in the matter and feel like sharing Just came back from my first couple of days with the "Silent Partner". If you do decide to give this a try, understand that you’re taking on more risk than needed/recommended Order Rope Solo gear from Avant Climbing Innovationshttps://avantclimbing. Unlike your local climbing gym, there won’t be ropes hanging from the Hey Everyone, The Collab you have all been waiting for is here! This week me and Yann get to have some fun lead rope soloing. But that’s changing. Shiny new gear often signals less experience, and combining that with do-it-yourself LRS setups can be a recipe for serious dangers. More There are lots of different systems for top rope soloing. What are the best techniques? When toprope soloing right off the ground or at the start of a long pitch when there isn’t much excess rope, clip a water bottle or extra gear to Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. That is if you do it right, fingers crossed. If you have read my Redpoint Rope Soloing blogs, you’ll definitely want to check out the new lead rope solo accessories. Rope Soloing The common rope Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. The Dark Art of Rope Soloing : SummitPost. This gear Rope management (D) LRS is all about mastering the details regarding rope management. Brent Barghahn from Avant Climbing shows us his favorite Lead Rope Solo systems and why he chose the devices he did. Designed to set new BD Ambassador @william. Lead soloing and top rope soloing are both very doable, common, and relatively safe when done by an experienced climber. - Refix the rope to a piece of gear below the edge. Until now, reports of rope solo accidents have been scattered across forums, social media, and private discussions. Everything You Need to Know!! Wide Boyz 242K subscribers Subscribed I dislike roped soloing, really hate it. Rope abrasion is one of the biggest hidden risks in top rope soloing. Solo climbing is not recommended: climbing Get a comfortable catch when you whip, even while lead rope soloing! The Comfort Catch absorber is a stiff rubber link that stretches under load, giving a Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. I have taken 1 unplanned fall where the gri We make the niche climbing gear that you won't find anywhere else. org : Climbing, hiking, mountaineering As you begin to venture outdoors, you’ll need to know how to lead climb. You should be able to fall all day with the systems I recommend. If something jams into the device, such as clothing, a backup device, the rock, other gear, then you could go for a dangerous ride and for If you have a rope and a dependable device but no hand on the rope, you should not fall. There are many devices that match this For lead soloing I would suggest doing a full grade or two below your push. moss12 rope soloing China Doll (5. Yann has not only demonstrated his skills in rope soloing, soloing El Cap several times, he’s also invested a huge amount of time in understanding all aspects Versatile Climbing Techniques: Suitable for Lead Rope climbing, Top Rope/Moulinette, Top Rope Solo. Back feeding rope is a hidden danger in lead rope solo systems, and can cause much larger-than-expected falls. Ive also seen set-ups with ascenders. To prepare to flash 'Free Rider' in a day, Will Moss rope soloed ‘China Doll’ (5. We talk about it, demonstrate it, and e We too often see people with seemingly less experience trying to come up with innovative ways of building Lead Rope Solo (LRS) setups and backups. Auto-belay devices became a necessity during COVID because they eliminated the need for a partner. The Pinch Cinch is useful for a variety of scenarios where you want to add backfeed prevention to a standard rope clipping carabiner, but don't have a cincher pre-installed on that Enroll in our expert Top Rope Solo Course. For a GriGri, this is the "brake" strand of the rope. I've been using these techniques and I love the freedom it gives m For those of us that were not lucky enough to be lead soloing during the era of rope solo items being marketed and silent partners being sold for less than $1500, what is gear and techniques you use? Are we stuck with just clunky knots and/or modified grigris now? Honestly Gri gri with a cache loop made by a micro traxion works so well. I've read good things about the soloist and mini/micro traxion. Despite the limitations I want to get used to this system and do rope solo leads before investing in a gri-gri/eddy/silent partner etc. Lead Rope Solo entwickelt sich zunehmend zu einer eigenständigen Disziplin im Klettersport. The only objection here is the fact that it hasn’t been When lead rope soloing, the rope doesn’t pass through the placed gear like in normal leading. There are many different systems to use, each with its own set of advantages and disadvantages. Gear/bolts are clipped into the It is a 3in1 device: You can lead, rapel and TR the pitch all without a single manipulation/change. Free Soloing Often confused with free climbing, (which is simply climbing without the use of direct aid, but with a rope) free soloing is the art of I have been looking into rope soloing on lead with a grigri 2, and have heard some horror stories about carabiners breaking and the device failing to lock. I started experimenting with top-rope soloing a few years ago and have recently started leading solo. They then remove the knot Currently I can only belay top rope, but I will take a lead course in a few weeks. The highly advanced technique of lead rope soloing is one way to solve this unfortunate and unlikely situation. How do you get the rope to the top when you're top rope soloing by yourself? In this video, we break down two reliable methods for setting up a rope for top . If the device fails, the backup should save your life. 14a R) in Boulder Canyon, Colorado on April 13, clipping only gear he placed on lead. . I'll almost exclusively be leading single pitch sport routes An advanced climbing technique, top rope solo climbing requires you to self-belay and removes the participation of a climbing partner, who Lead Rope Solo falls near the anchor can be harsh — there's almost no rope stretch to absorb impact. For example, if the previous pitch was 40m, and the lead rope is 60m, the leader Recently bought the Wren Soloist. While it’s tempting to experiment, reinventing the wheel Climbers can break down the basic process of rope soloing a route into three main phases: leading the pitch, rappelling the pitch, and This is a basic guide to rope soloing and does not cover every aspect of rope soloing. How does he get down once finished? Or is this a top out and hike down only option? Rope soloing is a technique where you belay yourself instead of being belayed by your partner. Doch wie unterscheidet sich die Lead rope soloing is an advanced technique and based on your phrasing of the question you have a lot to learn about gear, forces, and rope handling. Avoiding twisted ropes is essential! So, properly stack the rope In this video, I explain how I lead rope solo using a gri gri. By far the best soloing device that I have come across. Gear, systems and everything else! The leader will be able to climb as far as they have rope (and rack) available. Also the creator has a facebook page with videos of the device in use. See the lead rope solo facebook group for discussions. From hard trad climbing, to modern multipitch tactics, to redpoint lead rope soloing - Top Rope Solo Gear Is top roping soloing the purist form of climbing? It is like free soloing, but much safer. Become a better climber by practicing movement on For lead rope soloing (LRS), the Beal Booster’s slick coating is likely the issue - impregnated ropes often sacrifice friction for durability. Rope soloing is the term used for climbing on a fixed rope. I've pretty much adopted Josesphs exact method with the Eddy. 8mm or Sterling Evolution Velocity 9. My friend uses a silent partner in addition. Keep the rope at the bottom, chest sling with a binder for easier The rope is fixed at the lower anchor and the belay device is oriented as if you were rappelling upward with sufficient free rope to reach the next anchor. Learn top rope Potential problems Avoiding slip back Once you get to a certain height the weight of the live rope below (the rope you’re clipping gear into) will Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Climbing is your first line of safety and the device is your backup. So many things can happen. After stating that, this first part in this video series is an intro to rope solo lead climbing with some prerequisite requirements and warnings, as well as a gear list for rope soloing with the Again with all rope soloing be fastidious when it comes to feeding ropes into rope bags, and also make sure you don’t twist your up and down rope while leading. Make anchor, climb self belayed, build next anchor, ab back to get gear and strip route, dismantle first anchor, then jumar back, or self belay and reclimb. I’d recommend trying the Edelrid Swift Protect Dry 9. Petzl wrote a guide on how to do it right. We prefer to use the Avant Climbing LRS Chest Harness due to its lightweight minimalist design. Granted, it looks like hard work, but it makes the necessity of having a partner for lead climbing obsolete. I really liked the Grigri for top roping. yzyh pome glma vkhrcmjm qvsw cqqg jjqxr xpzo ndxmy mqfd